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Unit I · Textile fibres
8 min readPathway sheetOften a 10-mark answer

Cotton: cultivation, processing, properties and uses

Cotton is a seed-hair cellulose fibre grown in warm climates. It is absorbent, cool and strong when wet but creases easily, which suits Indian summers and hospital use.

PlantGossypium (desi and American species)
Chemical natureAbout 90% cellulose when raw (books give 88-96%)
Major Indian statesGujarat, Maharashtra, Telangana
By-productsLinters, cottonseed oil and oilcake

Draw it: from boll to bale

Cultivation and processing

  1. 1
    Growing: cotton needs a long, warm, frost-free season, moderate rain and bright sun. The moisture-holding black cotton soil of the Deccan suits it. Most Indian cotton today is Bt cotton, approved in 2002.
  2. 2
    Bolls: after the flower drops, a green boll grows. Fibres grow out from the seed coat, first lengthening, then thickening as cellulose is laid down inside.
  3. 3
    Picking: ripe bolls burst open and are picked, in India mostly by hand, in several rounds.
  4. 4★
    Ginning: the gin separates the lint (fibre) from the seed. Roller gins are gentle and suit long staple; saw gins are faster for short staple.
  5. 5
    By-products: short fuzz left on the seed (linters) goes into rayon, paper and other cellulose products; the seed gives cottonseed oil and oilcake.
  6. 6
    Baling and grading: lint is pressed into bales and graded by staple length, fineness, colour and trash. Long-staple types (Egyptian, Sea Island, Indian Suvin) give the finest yarn. Spinning follows (Unit II).

★ one-way, controls the pace

Properties of cotton

PropertyCottonSo in use
StructureFlat, twisted ribbon (convolutions) with a central lumen; kidney-shaped cross-sectionTwists help spinning; dull look unless mercerised
StrengthGood, and stronger when wetSurvives repeated washing and boiling
AbsorbencyHigh (regain about 8.5%); conducts heat awayCool and comfortable; soaks up sweat
Elasticity and resiliencyLowCreases easily; needs ironing or a resin finish
HeatTakes a hot iron; scorches and burns but never meltsDoes not stick to skin, but loose or napped cotton catches fire easily
ChemicalsResists alkalis; weakened by acids and strong chlorine bleachCan be boiled with soda; rinse acid stains at once
BiologicalMildew grows on damp cotton; silverfish attack starched cottonDry fully before storage
SunlightSlowly weakens and yellowsLine curtains to protect them

Uses of cotton

  • Clothing: saris, shirts, kurtas, innerwear, baby clothes, nightwear, school uniforms (often blended with polyester).
  • Household: bedsheets, towels, kitchen dusters, curtains, table linen.
  • Medical: absorbent (surgical) cotton, bandages, gauze and hospital linen, which can be boiled and sterilised.
  • Industrial: canvas, tarpaulins, sewing thread, hose and belt fabrics.
  • Indian heritage: khadi (hand-spun and hand-woven, the cloth of the freedom movement), fine mulmul, and handloom saris such as Chettinad and Venkatagiri.

Cotton and linen

CottonSeed hair; short staple; convolutions; regain about 8.5%; soft and cheap; creases.
LinenBast fibre from the stem of flax, freed by retting (rotting the stems in water); longer, stronger, more lustrous and cooler; regain about 12%; creases even more; nodes under the microscope.

Both are cellulose, so they share the same burning test and chemical behaviour.

In daily life

Cotton is the first choice for kitchen aprons, hospital linen and baby clothes: it absorbs sweat, can be boiled or hot-washed to kill germs, and does not melt onto skin. The same crop gives cottonseed oil (refined to remove the toxic pigment gossypol) and oilcake for cattle.

Exam angle

2 marks: “What is ginning?” Ginning separates cotton lint from the seed, using roller gins (long staple) or saw gins (short staple).

5 marks: “List the properties of cotton.” Structure (convolutions, lumen), strength (stronger wet), absorbency, low resiliency, heat, acids and alkalis, mildew, sunlight; one use for each.

10 marks: “Describe the cultivation, properties and uses of cotton.” Climate and soil, bolls, picking, ginning, linters, baling and grading; properties in a table; uses in clothing, home, medicine and industry; Indian examples.

Remember it

Cotton loves water and heat (stronger wet, takes a hot iron, can be boiled) but hates acid and mildew.