Spinning on the cotton system: opening to roving
The cotton system turns raw bales into yarn in a fixed order: opening, cleaning, carding, combing, drawing, roving and spinning, each making fibres cleaner, more parallel and finer.
Draw it: the cotton spinning system
The steps and what each does
- 1Opening and blending: bale openers pull compressed cotton into small tufts and mix several bales so the yarn is uniform.
- 2Cleaning (blow room): beaters and air currents knock out dust, leaf, seed bits and sand. The cotton goes forward as a lap or by chute feed.
- 3★Carding: a large cylinder and moving flats covered with fine wire teeth separate the fibres one by one, remove leftover trash, neps and some short fibres, and partly straighten them. The thin web is gathered into a card sliver.
- 4Combing (optional): fine combs remove short fibres (noils) and leftover neps and lay long fibres parallel, for finer, smoother, stronger, more lustrous yarn.
- 5★Drawing: six to eight slivers are fed together (doubling) and pulled thinner by pairs of rollers running faster and faster (drafting), making the sliver even and parallel.
- 6Roving: the speed (fly) frame drafts the sliver further and adds a little twist, winding roving onto bobbins.
- 7Spinning and winding: the ring frame drafts roving to the final fineness, inserts twist and winds yarn on bobbins, which are rewound into cones.
★ one-way, controls the pace
Carded and combed yarn
Two key ideas, and hand spinning
- Doubling: feeding several slivers together evens out thick and thin places.
- Drafting: pulling the strand thinner between rollers running at increasing speeds. Draft = delivery speed ÷ feed speed.
- Every stage after carding makes the strand thinner, more even and more parallel.
- Hand spinning: cotton for khadi is opened with a carding bow and spun on the charkha or the multi-spindle Ambar charkha, which draft and twist by hand.
Combed cotton is softer and less hairy, so it suits baby clothes, hospital gowns and innerwear that touch sensitive skin. Cheaper carded cotton is fine for kitchen dusters, towels and aprons.
2 marks: “What is carding?” Carding opens and separates fibres, removes trash and short fibres, partly straightens them and forms a soft, untwisted rope called card sliver.
5 marks: “Differentiate carded and combed yarns.” Process (carded only vs carded and combed), short fibres and neps, evenness, hairiness, strength, lustre, cost, end uses.
10 marks: “Explain the steps in the cotton system of spinning.” Flow chart; opening and blending; cleaning; carding; combing; drawing (doubling and drafting); roving; ring spinning and winding; carded vs combed.
O-C-C-C-D-R-S: 'Our Cook Cuts Carrots, Dices Radish, Serves': Opening, Cleaning, Carding, Combing, Drawing, Roving, Spinning.