Twill, satin and sateen weaves
Twill shifts the interlacing one step each row, forming diagonal lines. Satin and sateen use long, scattered floats for a smooth, lustrous face with no visible diagonal.
Twill weave
In twill, a warp (or weft) yarn floats over two or more yarns and the interlacing moves one yarn to the side on each pick, building diagonal lines (wales). It is written as a fraction: 2/1 means warp over two, under one; 2/2 over two, under two; 3/1 over three, under one. Twill needs at least three harnesses. With fewer interlacings, yarns pack closely, so twill is strong, compact and durable, hides soil, drapes better and creases less than plain weave. It has a clear face and back.
Variations of twill
| Variation | Feature | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Even (balanced) twill | Equal warp and weft on the face (2/2) | Serge, surah, some flannels |
| Warp-faced twill | More warp on the face (2/1, 3/1) | Denim (3/1, indigo warp, white weft), drill, gabardine, jean |
| Weft-faced twill | More weft on the face (1/2, 1/3) | Rarely used |
| Right- and left-hand twill | Lines rise to the right or to the left | Most denim is right-hand |
| Steep and reclining twill | Lines steeper or flatter than the regular 45° | Gabardine and cavalry twill are steep |
| Herringbone (broken twill) | Direction reverses at intervals with a break, like a fish skeleton | Suiting, coats, uniforms |
| Pointed (zigzag) twill | Direction reverses without a break, forming chevrons | Furnishing, shawls |
Satin and sateen
Corbman and most Indian texts define sateen as weft-faced; many cotton 'sateen' sheets sold today are really warp-faced cotton satins. In the exam, write the textbook definition.
Basic weaves compared
| Point | Plain | Twill | Satin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Interlacing | Over 1, under 1 | Over 2 or more, shifting one step | Over 4 or more, scattered |
| Minimum harnesses | 2 | 3 | 5 |
| Surface | Flat; same both sides | Diagonal wales; face and back differ | Smooth, lustrous face; dull back |
| Durability | Firm; frays little | Very strong and durable | Least durable; floats snag |
| Wrinkling | Creases most | Creases less | Creases least |
| Examples | Cambric, voile, poplin | Denim, drill, gabardine, serge | Satin, sateen, crepe-back satin |
Activity: building a sample file of weaves
- 1Collect swatches (about 5 × 5 cm) from tailoring shops, old clothes or mill cut-pieces: plain, rib, basket, twill and its variations, satin, sateen, then decorative weaves (dobby, jacquard, leno, swivel, pile, double cloth).
- 2★Identify each with a magnifier: mark the warp (parallel to the selvedge), follow one weft across and note how many warp yarns it passes over and under.
- 3Draw the repeat on squared paper next to the swatch (filled square = warp up).
- 4Record the fibre (burning test), fabric name, weave, fabric count and an end use.
- 5Mount neatly, one weave per page, with a contents page.
★ one-way, controls the pace
Cotton drill or twill is the best cloth for chef coats, kitchen trousers and canteen uniforms: it is strong and hides stains. Satin looks rich on banquet table runners but snags on cutlery and rings, so it is a poor choice for working uniforms.
2 marks: “Differentiate satin and sateen.” Satin has warp floats on the face and usually filament yarns; sateen has weft floats on the face and usually cotton yarns.
5 marks: “Explain twill weave and its variations.” Floats over two or more, shifting one step; diagonal wales; 2/1, 2/2, 3/1; three harnesses; properties; even, warp- and weft-faced, right and left, steep and reclining, herringbone, pointed; examples.
10 marks: “Describe the basic weaves with neat diagrams and examples.” Plain (and rib, basket), twill (and variations), satin and sateen: interlacing, harnesses, drafts, properties, examples; comparison table.
Harnesses 2-3-5: plain, twill, satin. Satin shows warp floats; sateen shows weft floats, usually in cotton.