Parts of a simple loom and basic weaving operations
A loom holds warp yarns under tension while weft is interlaced. Every loom repeats three primary motions: shedding, picking and beating-up, with let-off and take-up as secondary motions.
Parts of a simple loom
| Part | What it does |
|---|---|
| Warp beam (weaver's beam) | Roller at the back on which the warp yarns are wound |
| Back rest (whip roll) | Guides the warp forward at the right height and tension |
| Lease rods | Keep warp yarns in order and stop tangling |
| Heddles (healds) | Wires or cords with a central eye; each warp yarn passes through one eye |
| Harness (heald shaft) | Frame holding heddles; lifting it raises its warp yarns. Plain weave needs at least 2, twill 3, satin 5 |
| Reed | Comb-like frame of fine wires (dents) that spaces the warp and pushes each pick into place |
| Batten (sley, lay) | Swinging frame that carries the reed forward to beat up |
| Shuttle | Boat-shaped carrier holding a bobbin (pirn) of weft; passes through the shed |
| Breast beam | Front bar over which the woven cloth passes |
| Cloth beam | Front roller on which the finished cloth is wound |
| Treadles | Foot pedals of a handloom that work the harnesses |
Draw it: one weaving cycle
- back to Shedding
Basic weaving operations
Before weaving, the warp is wound onto the beam (warping), sized to protect it, and each end is drawn through its heddle eye and reed dent (drawing-in); weft is wound onto pirns.
- 1★Shedding: the harnesses raise some warp yarns and lower others, opening a V-shaped tunnel called the shed.
- 2★Picking: the shuttle (or a rapier, air jet or water jet on shuttleless looms) carries one weft yarn, a pick, through the shed.
- 3★Beating-up: the batten swings forward and the reed pushes the new pick firmly against the fell of the cloth.
- 4Let-off: the warp beam releases a little more warp at a steady tension.
- 5Take-up: the cloth beam winds up the woven cloth; the harnesses change places for the next pick, locking the weft in.
- 6Stop motions (auxiliary): on power looms a broken warp or an empty weft bobbin stops the loom automatically.
★ one-way, controls the pace
Kinds of looms in India
- Handloom: worked by hand and foot; pit looms (the weaver sits at the edge of a pit with the treadles below) and frame looms; used for khadi and for Kanchipuram and Banarasi saris.
- Power loom: motor-driven shuttle looms that weave much of India's cloth in centres such as Bhiwandi, Surat and Erode.
- Shuttleless looms: rapier, projectile, air-jet and water-jet looms are faster and quieter; water-jet looms suit synthetics, which do not absorb water.
- Attachments: dobby and jacquard heads control many harnesses or single warp yarns for patterned cloth.
Buying handloom cloth for uniforms, table linen or canteen napkins supports rural weavers. A cloth that is firmly beaten and closely woven stays smooth and strong through daily washing.
2 marks: “What is shedding?” Shedding is the raising of some warp yarns and lowering of others by the harnesses to form an opening (the shed) for the weft.
5 marks: “Explain the primary and secondary motions of a loom.” Primary: shedding, picking, beating-up; secondary: let-off, take-up; auxiliary: warp and weft stop motions; one line each with the part involved.
10 marks: “Draw a simple loom, label its parts and explain the basic weaving operations.” Labelled side view; function of each part; preparation; the three primary and two secondary motions in order; kinds of looms.
Shed, Pick, Beat, then Let-off, Take-up: 'Sita Picks Beans, Lifts, Takes.'