Knitting: terms, and knitted versus woven fabrics
Knitting makes fabric by interlooping yarn: each loop is drawn through the one before. Wales run lengthwise, courses run across, and the loops give stretch and comfort.
What knitting is
Knitting is the making of fabric by interlooping one or more yarns: each new loop is drawn through the loop before it. Hand knitting uses two needles; machines use rows of latch, spring-beard or compound needles. Key terms: a wale is a lengthwise column of loops; a course is a crosswise row of loops; gauge is the number of needles per inch of the machine (higher gauge, finer knit); stitch density = wales per inch × courses per inch. There are two kinds: weft knitting, where the yarn runs across the fabric, and warp knitting, where the yarns run along its length.
Knitted and woven fabrics compared
| Point | Knitted | Woven |
|---|---|---|
| Method | Interlooping of loops | Interlacing of two yarn sets at right angles |
| Yarn sets | Can be a single yarn (weft knit) | At least two (warp and weft) |
| Stretch | High, especially across | Low, except on the bias |
| Wrinkling | Resists wrinkles; recovers well | Creases more |
| Comfort | Soft and porous; moves with the body | Firmer, more stable |
| Shape | May sag, stretch or shrink; jersey edges curl | Holds shape; cut edges fray |
| Damage | A broken loop can ladder (run) | A broken yarn makes only a small hole |
| Production | Fast; garments can be knitted to shape | Slower; needs warp preparation |
Kinds of knitting machines
- Circular machines knit a tube of fabric quickly: T-shirt and innerwear cloth.
- Flat (V-bed) machines knit flat panels and shaped pieces: sweaters, collars.
- Full-fashioned knitting shapes each piece while knitting by adding or dropping stitches, so there is little waste.
- Warp-knitting machines (tricot, raschel) are fed from a warp beam, with one or more yarns per needle.
Activity: field visit to a textile unit
The practical asks for visits to textile units, such as a knitting unit in Tiruppur, a handloom cluster, a spinning mill or a dyeing and finishing house.
- 1Plan: choose the unit, get written permission through your department, and fix the date, time and safety rules.
- 2Prepare questions: raw material and its source, machines used, process flow, daily output, quality checks, waste handling, worker safety and welfare.
- 3★Observe and note each stage in order; ask before taking photographs and collect small samples if allowed.
- 4Draw the process flow chart, e.g. for knitwear: yarn → knitting → dyeing → compacting → cutting → stitching → checking → packing.
- 5Write the report: introduction, profile of the unit, flow chart, observations, what you learned, suggestions and a short conclusion, with photographs and samples.
★ one-way, controls the pace
Soft cotton knits (jersey, interlock) are ideal for baby clothes, hospital patient wear and kitchen staff T-shirts because they stretch with movement and absorb sweat. A snag can ladder, so keep sharp knives and rough jewellery away from knits.
2 marks: “Define wale and course.” A wale is a lengthwise column of loops in a knitted fabric; a course is a crosswise row of loops.
5 marks: “Compare knitted and woven fabrics.” Method (interlooping vs interlacing), yarn sets, stretch, wrinkling, comfort, shape, laddering vs fraying, production speed, examples.
Wales go the way down (lengthwise); courses go crosswise. Knit = loops; woven = crossings.