7 min readConcept sheetOften a 5-mark answer; part of the 10-mark basic weaves question

Plain weave and its variations

In plain weave each weft goes over one warp and under the next, alternating every row. Rib and basket weaves are its variations.

Other nameTabby weave

Harnesses needed2

InterlacingsThe most of any weave

VariationsRib weave and basket (matt) weave

How it is made

Plain weave is the simplest and most common weave. Each weft passes over one, under one warp; the next pick does the opposite. On squared paper it looks like a chequerboard. Only two harnesses are needed: one lifts the odd ends, the other the even ends. Because the yarns interlace at every crossing, the cloth is firm, flat and strong, looks the same on both sides, and is a good base for printing and embroidery. It creases more than twill or satin, and its many interlacings help it fray less than looser weaves.

Plain-weave fabrics

Weight	Fabrics
Sheer	Voile, organdy, chiffon, georgette (crepe yarns), mulmul, cheesecloth, gauze
Light to medium	Lawn, cambric, muslin, percale, poplin, taffeta, gingham, chambray, khadi
Heavy	Canvas, duck, casement

Variations of plain weave

Rib weaveRibs (cords) form when one set of yarns is thicker or grouped. Thicker or grouped weft gives crosswise ribs: poplin, taffeta, faille, grosgrain, bengaline, ottoman. Thicker or grouped warp gives lengthwise ribs. Ribs add body but rub and slip more.

Basket weaveTwo or more warp yarns are treated as one and interlace with two or more weft yarns: 2 × 2, 3 × 3, or the uneven 2 × 1 (half basket). Looser, more porous, flexible and wrinkle-resistant, but less durable; yarns slip and snag. Monk's cloth, hopsacking, matt weave, oxford shirting (2 × 1).

Drawing weaves on squared (point) paper

Each small square is one crossing. A filled square means warp over weft; a blank square means weft over warp.

1
Plain: fill alternate squares like a chequerboard; the repeat is 2 ends × 2 picks.
2
2 × 2 basket: fill blocks of four squares (2 × 2) in a chequerboard of blocks.
3
Rib: fill whole pairs of rows (or columns) alternately to show the grouped yarns.
4
Mark the warp direction and name one fabric beside each draft.

In daily life

Plain-woven cotton (casement, cambric, khadi) is the usual choice for kitchen aprons, chef coats and hospital sheets: it is firm, takes printed logos and survives hard washing. Loose basket weaves snag on utensils, so keep them for table mats and curtains.

Exam angle

2 marks: “What is basket weave? Give an example.” A plain-weave variation in which two or more warp yarns interlace as one with two or more weft yarns; e.g. oxford shirting, monk's cloth.

5 marks: “Explain plain weave and its variations with diagrams.” Over one, under one; two harnesses; chequerboard draft; properties and examples; rib (thick or grouped yarns, poplin) and basket (yarns in groups, oxford) with drafts.

Remember it

Plain = one up, one down. Thick yarns make a rib; yarns in pairs make a basket.