Yarn: definition and types
A yarn is a continuous strand of fibres or filaments ready for weaving or knitting. Yarns are spun or filament, and simple or complex (novelty).
What a yarn is
A yarn is a continuous strand of textile fibres, filaments or other material in a form suitable for weaving, knitting or otherwise making a fabric. Sewing thread is a special yarn: plied, tightly twisted and smooth. Yarns are classified by fibre length (spun or filament), by number of parts (single, ply, cord) and by appearance (simple or complex). A blended yarn mixes two fibres before spinning, e.g. 65 : 35 polyester-cotton.
Spun yarn and filament yarn
Simple and complex yarns
| Class | Yarn | How it is made | Examples or use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Simple | Single | One strand of fibres or filaments twisted together | Most weaving yarns |
| Simple | Ply | Two or more singles twisted together (2-ply, 3-ply) | Strong shirting, sewing thread, knitting wool |
| Simple | Cord (cable) | Two or more ply yarns twisted together | Ropes, twine, heavy thread |
| Complex | Slub | Thick and thin parts from uneven twist or feed | Slub cotton kurtas, textured silks |
| Complex | Boucle and loop | Effect yarn fed faster than the base forms curls or loops, held by a binder | Boucle coats and sweaters |
| Complex | Spiral (corkscrew) | Two yarns of different size or twist plied so one coils round the other | Decorative suiting |
| Complex | Knot (nub, spot) | Effect yarn wrapped many times at one spot, forming bumps | Tweeds, furnishing |
| Complex | Chenille | Short tufts held between twisted core yarns; looks like a caterpillar | Bedspreads, upholstery, sweaters |
| Complex | Metallic | Metal wire or metallised film, alone or wrapped on a core | Zari borders of silk saris, lurex |
| Complex | Core-spun | A filament core (spandex or polyester) covered with staple fibres | Stretch denim, strong sewing thread |
Activity: identifying yarns
- 1Pull one warp yarn and one weft yarn from the fabric; the warp runs parallel to the selvedge.
- 2★Untwist each under a magnifier. Short fibres coming apart mean spun yarn; long, smooth strands mean filament.
- 3Count the parts: one strand is a single; two or more twisted strands make a ply; plies twisted together make a cord.
- 4Hold the yarn upright and see which way the spirals slope: like the middle of S or of Z.
- 5Look along the length: an even yarn is simple; slubs, loops, knots or a metallic sheen mean a complex (novelty) yarn.
- 6Mount each yarn on a record sheet with its fibre (burning test), type, ply, twist direction and an end use.
★ one-way, controls the pace
For hospital linen and kitchen towels, choose spun cotton yarns: their hairy surface soaks up water. Avoid loop and novelty yarns in children's and kitchen wear because loops catch on fingers and utensils. Real zari borders need gentle hand washing and storage wrapped in soft cotton.
2 marks: “Define yarn.” A yarn is a continuous strand of fibres or filaments, with or without twist, suitable for weaving, knitting or other fabric making.
5 marks: “Distinguish between spun and filament yarns.” Fibre length, twist, surface, lustre, warmth, absorbency, pilling or snagging, examples; set out as a table.
10 marks: “Classify yarns and explain the types of novelty yarns.” Spun and filament; simple (single, ply, cord); parts of a complex yarn (base, effect, binder); slub, boucle, loop, spiral, knot, chenille, metallic, core-spun with sketches and uses.
A novelty yarn is base + effect + binder: the base carries it, the effect shows off, the binder holds it.