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Unit IV · Other methods of fabric construction
7 min readConcept sheetOften a 5-mark answer

Bonded fabrics, felts and care of non-wovens

Bonded fabrics are fibre webs or fabric layers held by adhesive or heat. Felts are fibre masses matted by heat, moisture and pressure, or by needling.

Oldest fabricWool felt
Felting needsHeat, moisture, agitation, pressure
Felt does notFray, or have a grain
Indian feltNamda rugs of Kashmir

Two meanings of bonded fabric

Bonded-fibre fabricA non-woven web held together by an adhesive binder or by heat that melts thermoplastic fibres where they cross. Cheap, light, does not fray: interlinings, disposable napkins, wipes.
Bonded (laminated) fabricTwo or more fabric layers, or fabric and foam, joined by adhesive or a thin melted foam layer. A face fabric is bonded to a tricot lining for body and stability; fabric bonded to a plastic film makes rainwear. Layers can separate or pucker if they shrink differently.

How wool felt is made

Felt is probably the oldest fabric, made before weaving. Wool felts because its **scales** lock and its **crimp** and spring pull the fibres together.

  1. 1
    Carded wool webs are laid in layers, often crossed, to the needed thickness (the batt).
  2. 2
    The batt is wetted with hot water and soap (or a mild alkali or acid) and steamed.
  3. 3★
    Hardening: the batt is pressed and rubbed between heated, vibrating plates so the fibres begin to interlock.
  4. 4★
    Fulling (milling): rolling and pounding shrink and compact the felt to the required density.
  5. 5
    Finishing: the felt is dried, sheared, pressed, and sometimes stiffened or dyed.

★ one-way, controls the pace

Wool felt and needle felt

PointWool (pressed) feltNeedle felt
FibresWool, or blends with enough woolAny fibre, including synthetics
MethodHeat, moisture, agitation and pressureBarbed needles entangle the web
PropertiesWarm, absorbs sound and shock, no fray, no grain; weak, poor drape, loses shape when wetStronger and cheaper; no shrinking step
UsesHats, slippers, namda rugs, piano hammers, padding, craftCarpets, underlay, blankets, mattress pads, filters

Care of non-wovens and felts

  • Read the label first: many non-wovens (masks, caps, wipes, napkins) are single-use; do not wash and reuse them.
  • Wash durable non-wovens gently by hand in cool or lukewarm water with mild detergent; do not rub, wring or twist, or the web may tear or pill.
  • Most are thermoplastic (polypropylene, polyester): iron on low heat or not at all, and keep away from hot pans.
  • Adhesive-bonded and laminated fabrics may separate with hot water, hard rubbing or some dry-cleaning solvents; follow the care label.
  • Wool felt: dry clean or spot clean, because water and rubbing shrink and distort it; brush off dust and store dry with neem leaves or naphthalene against moths.
  • Dry flat in shade; avoid hot tumble drying.
In daily life

In a hospital or food unit, non-woven caps, masks and aprons are use-once items; reusing them spreads germs. A non-woven carry bag can be wiped and reused, but keep it away from hot vessels because polypropylene softens with heat.

Exam angle

2 marks: “What is felt?” A non-woven fabric made by matting fibres (usually wool) together with heat, moisture, agitation and pressure, or by needle punching.

5 marks: “How is wool felt made? Give its properties and uses.” Layered carded batt; wetting and steaming; hardening; fulling; finishing. Warm, no fray, no grain, weak, poor drape. Hats, slippers, namda, padding.

10 marks: “Explain bonded fabrics and felts, and the care of non-woven fabrics.” Two meanings of bonded fabric; wool felt process and needle felt; comparison; care points for disposable, durable, bonded and felt items.

Remember it

Felting needs H-M-A-P: heat, moisture, agitation, pressure, the same four things that ruin a wool sweater in a washing machine.