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Unit I · Textile fibres
10 min readPathway sheetOften a 10-mark answer (one fibre at a time); comparisons for 5 marks

Rayon, nylon and polyester: manufacture, properties and uses

Man-made fibres are made by forcing a polymer liquid through a spinneret. Rayon is regenerated cellulose (wet spun); nylon and polyester are synthetics (melt spun).

SpinneretA metal cap with many tiny holes, like a shower head
Viscose raw materialWood pulp or cotton linters
Nylon 6,6 made fromHexamethylene diamine + adipic acid
Polyester (PET) made fromTerephthalic acid + ethylene glycol

Three ways to spin man-made fibres

MethodHow the filament setsFibres
Wet spinningSolution is pushed into a chemical bath that sets the fibreViscose rayon, some acrylics
Dry spinningSolution in a volatile solvent is pushed into warm air; the solvent evaporatesAcetate, some acrylics, spandex
Melt spinningMelted polymer is pushed into cool air and hardensNylon, polyester, polypropylene

Viscose rayon process

Rayon was the first man-made fibre. Chardonnet of France is called the father of the rayon industry; Cross, Bevan and Beadle of England found the viscose method in 1892.

  1. 1
    Steeping: sheets of purified wood pulp are soaked in caustic soda (about 18%) to form alkali cellulose.
  2. 2
    Pressing and shredding: extra alkali is squeezed out and the sheets are shredded into white crumbs.
  3. 3
    Ageing: the crumbs stand for a set time so the cellulose chains shorten.
  4. 4★
    Xanthation: the crumbs are churned with carbon disulphide and turn orange as cellulose xanthate forms.
  5. 5
    Dissolving and ripening: the xanthate is dissolved in dilute caustic soda to give a thick, honey-like liquid, viscose, which is ripened, filtered and freed of air bubbles.
  6. 6★
    Wet spinning: viscose is pumped through spinnerets into an acid bath (sulphuric acid with sodium and zinc sulphates), and cellulose is regenerated as filaments.
  7. 7
    Finishing: filaments are stretched, washed, desulphurised, bleached and dried, then wound as filament or cut into staple.

★ one-way, controls the pace

Nylon and polyester (melt spinning)

Nylon was developed by Wallace Carothers at DuPont (USA) in the 1930s. Polyester was developed by Whinfield and Dickson in England in 1941 and sold as Terylene and Dacron.

  1. 1
    Polymerisation: nylon 6,6 joins hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid (nylon 6 uses caprolactam); polyester (PET) joins terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol. Both are heated in a reactor (condensation polymerisation).
  2. 2
    Chips: the polymer is pushed out as a ribbon, cooled and cut into chips.
  3. 3★
    Melting and extrusion: chips are melted and pumped through a spinneret.
  4. 4
    Cooling: the filaments harden in a stream of cool air.
  5. 5★
    Drawing: filaments are stretched several times their length so the molecules line up, giving strength and elasticity.
  6. 6
    Texturing or cutting: filaments are crimped for bulk and stretch, or cut into staple for blending with cotton or viscose.

★ one-way, controls the pace

Properties and uses compared

PropertyViscose rayonNylonPolyester
StrengthFair; much weaker when wetVery strong; best abrasion resistanceStrong
Absorbency (regain)High, about 13%; comfortableLow, about 4%Very low, about 0.4%; sticky in heat
Elasticity and resiliencyPoor; creasesExcellent elasticityExcellent resiliency; wrinkle-free, drip-dry
HeatDoes not melt; medium ironMelts; low iron; sparks make holesMelts; heat-set pleats stay
Other pointsDrapes well, dyes brightly; mildew possibleStatic, pilling; weakened by sunlightStatic, pilling, holds oily stains; resists sunlight, moths and mildew
UsesSaris, dress material, linings, kurtas; wipes and sanitary productsHosiery, sportswear, ropes, fishing nets, parachutes, carpets, toothbrush bristlesPolyester-cotton shirting and uniforms, saris, curtains, pillow fibre-fill, sewing thread

Regenerated and synthetic

RegeneratedA natural polymer (cellulose) is dissolved and re-formed. Absorbent and cotton-like; burns like cotton. Viscose, modal, lyocell.
SyntheticA polymer built from petrochemicals. Strong, low absorbency, thermoplastic (melts). Nylon, polyester, acrylic, spandex.

Acrylic (polyacrylonitrile) is the wool-like synthetic: light, warm and cheap, used for sweaters, shawls and blankets, but it pills and melts.

In daily life

Do not wear nylon or polyester while cooking or in a hospital kitchen: they melt and stick to skin if they catch fire. A polyester-cotton blend is fine for front-office uniforms, and viscose and polypropylene non-wovens make disposable caps, masks and wipes.

Exam angle

2 marks: “What is a spinneret?” A metal cap with many tiny holes through which a polymer solution or melt is forced to form man-made filaments.

5 marks: “Compare the properties of nylon and polyester.” Both melt-spun, strong, thermoplastic, low regain, static, pilling. Nylon: more elastic, best abrasion resistance, harmed by sunlight. Polyester: wrinkle-free, regain 0.4%, oily stains, resists sunlight. Uses of each.

10 marks: “Explain the manufacture of viscose rayon. Add its properties and uses.” Steeping, pressing, shredding, ageing, xanthation, dissolving, ripening, wet spinning in an acid bath, finishing; flow chart; properties; uses.

Remember it

Viscose steps: 'Some People Shred And Xerox Documents Rather Slowly': Steep, Press, Shred, Age, Xanthate, Dissolve, Ripen, Spin.