9 min readConcept sheetOften a 10-mark answer

Weft knitting and warp knitting

In weft knitting one yarn runs across, forming courses (jersey, rib, purl, interlock). In warp knitting many yarns run lengthwise, forming firm, run-resistant tricot and raschel.

Basic weft knitsPlain jersey, rib, purl, interlock

Basic warp knitsTricot, raschel, milanese

Weft-knit stitchesKnit, purl, tuck, miss

Run-resistantWarp knits

The four basic stitches of weft knitting

KnitThe loop is drawn through to the face; it shows as a flat V on the face.

PurlThe loop is drawn through to the back; it shows as a bump on the face.

TuckThe needle holds its loop and takes a new yarn without knitting it off; gives texture and small holes (piqué, honeycomb).

Miss (float)The needle does not take the yarn, which floats behind; used for colour patterns (jacquard knits).

Basic weft-knit fabrics

Fabric	Structure	Properties	Uses
Plain (single) jersey	Knit stitches only; V-shaped wales on the face, half-circle loops on the back	Light and stretchy, more across; edges curl; ladders	T-shirts, innerwear, hosiery, babywear
Rib	Wales of knit and purl alternate across (1 × 1, 2 × 2); two needle beds	Very elastic across; 1 × 1 looks the same both sides; does not curl	Cuffs, collars, waistbands, sweaters
Purl (links-links)	Courses of knit and purl alternate; both sides look like the back of jersey	Stretches well lengthwise; bulky; slow to make	Children's wear, chunky sweaters
Interlock	Two 1 × 1 ribs knitted into each other; both sides look like the face of jersey	Smooth, stable, firm; does not curl; ladders only from one end	Polo shirts, babywear, quality innerwear

Basic warp-knit fabrics

Fabric	Structure	Uses
Tricot	Fine; fine wales on the face, crosswise lines on the back; one to four guide bars	Lingerie, nightwear, linings, backing for bonded fabrics
Raschel	Latch needles and many guide bars; can make open, lacy or heavy fabrics, with or without spandex	Lace, nets, power-net shapewear, thermal fabric, mosquito nets, sacks
Milanese	Yarns travel diagonally across the fabric; smooth and very run-resistant	Fine lingerie and gloves (now rare)

Weft and warp knitting compared

Point	Weft knitting	Warp knitting
Yarn direction	Across (forms courses)	Lengthwise (each needle fed from a warp beam)
Yarn supply	One or a few yarns	Many yarns, one or more per needle
Done by	Hand or machine (circular or flat)	Machine only
Stretch	High, especially across	Lower; more stable
Laddering	Ladders, and can unravel from the last row	Run-resistant; does not unravel
Speed	Moderate	Very fast
Examples	Jersey, rib, purl, interlock	Tricot, raschel, milanese

In daily life

Choose interlock or soft jersey for newborn wear (smooth, does not curl, gentle on skin) and rib for cuffs that stay snug. Warp-knit raschel net makes light hair nets for food handlers and mosquito nets for wards.

Exam angle

2 marks: “What is interlock knit?” A double weft knit made of two 1 × 1 ribs knitted into each other; smooth on both sides, stable and non-curling; used for babywear and polo shirts.

5 marks: “Explain the basic weft-knit fabrics.” Plain jersey, rib, purl and interlock: structure, properties and uses of each, with a loop sketch.

10 marks: “Differentiate weft knitting and warp knitting with examples and diagrams.” Definitions and sketches; weft stitches and fabrics; warp fabrics (tricot, raschel, milanese); comparison table; uses.

Remember it

Weft knits J-R-P-I, 'Just Read Poems Inside': Jersey, Rib, Purl, Interlock. Warp knits T-R-M: Tricot, Raschel, Milanese.