Weaving terms: warp, weft, grain, selvedge and fabric count
Woven cloth has warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise) yarns. The selvedge runs along the warp, grain shows yarn direction, and fabric count gives yarns per inch.
Warp and weft
To tell them apart: the selvedge runs along the warp; warp yarns are straighter, closer and more twisted; the cloth stretches less along the warp.
Grain line
- Grain is the direction in which the yarns run.
- Lengthwise (straight) grain follows the warp: strongest, least stretch; pattern pieces are laid along it.
- Crosswise grain follows the weft: slightly more give.
- Bias is any slanting direction; true bias is at 45° and stretches most, so it is used for bias binding, piping and draped cowls.
- Off-grain cloth (weft not at right angles to warp, i.e. bowed or skewed) makes garments twist after washing; it is straightened by pulling a thread and stretching diagonally, or corrected on the tenter frame.
Types of selvedge
| Selvedge | Description | Seen on |
|---|---|---|
| Plain | Same weave as the body, with more or stronger warp yarns | Most cotton fabrics |
| Tape | Heavier yarns or a different weave (rib or basket), forming a flat tape | Sheeting, towels, suiting |
| Split | Narrow fabrics woven side by side and cut apart; edges secured with leno or stitching | Towels, narrow fabrics |
| Fused | Thermoplastic yarns cut and sealed with heat | Nylon and polyester fabrics, ribbons |
| Leno or fringe | On shuttleless looms the weft is cut at each edge; the fringe is locked by leno yarns or tucked in | Modern mill fabrics |
Fabric count (thread count)
Fabric count is the number of warp yarns (ends) and weft yarns (picks) per square inch (or per cm), written warp first, e.g. 100 × 80; the total (180) is often called the thread count. It is counted with a pick glass, a small magnifier with a 1-inch or 1-cm opening. A balanced cloth has about equal ends and picks (e.g. lawn); an unbalanced one has many more in one direction (e.g. poplin, with far more warp than weft). A high count gives a firm, smooth, durable cloth that shrinks and frays less; a low count gives a loose, porous, cheap cloth such as cheesecloth or gauze.
Counting a fabric
Under a pick glass with a 1 cm opening you count 40 ends and 32 picks. Write the fabric count per cm and per inch (1 inch = 2.54 cm), rounding to whole yarns.
- Per cm: 40 × 32.
- Ends per inch = 40 × 2.54 = 101.6, which rounds to 102.
- Picks per inch = 32 × 2.54 = 81.28, which rounds to 81.
- Thread count ≈ 102 + 81 = 183. Ends exceed picks by 40 ÷ 32 = 1.25 times, so the cloth is somewhat unbalanced.
40 × 32 per cm; about 102 × 81 per inch; thread count about 183.
For hospital and hostel bedsheets, look for a high, balanced fabric count in cotton: it wears longer and survives hot washing. Cut aprons and uniforms on the straight grain so they hang evenly and do not twist after laundering.
2 marks: “What is a selvedge? Name two types.” The firm, self-finished lengthwise edge of a woven fabric that stops it fraying; e.g. plain, tape, split, fused, leno.
5 marks: “Explain the terms warp, weft, grain line, selvedge and fabric count.” Define each with a labelled sketch of a fabric piece; add true bias, types of selvedge and balanced vs unbalanced count.
Warp = way along (lengthwise, strong); weft = width (crosswise, soft). The selvedge, the 'self-edge', always runs with the warp.